Stepping into East Dulwich’s newest wine bar, Terroirs, on a cold and rainy night in January, it’s a treat to hang up your coat, take a seat by the fireplace (there’s not actually a fire burning, but the fireplace is comforting nonetheless), and settle down with the huge wine list, as if you were curling up in an armchair with a well thumbed copy of your favourite novel. The exposed brick interior, the long, open bar and the flickering candles make for a delightfully warm, inviting and unpretentious atmosphere, where the carefully curated (and truly tome-like) wine list can really shine.
The menu is simplicity itself - it changes daily, and consists of a few appetisers (order the thick crusty bread with salted butter to tear into while you make your other choices), a selection of charcuterie, small plates, main dishes and desserts. The chef puts it together based on what’s in season and what he can get his hands on (and, presumably, what he feels like making), so you know you’ll be getting fresh local produce, whatever you choose. There are some fantastic meat dishes to choose from and delicious (if sparing) vegetarian options. The small plates (£6-£10) are perfect for sharing, which is what Terroirs really seems to be made for - sharing good food and good wine with friends.